454 Page book on everything you need to know about every species of wood going, it says it’s a hand book but more like an encyclopaedia 
Two speed squares the large one has a multiple use adjustable fence.
A Lie Nielsen #9 Swmbo bought off ebay
A sailmakers palm glove repair kit.
Made entirely from scraps and assembled so it can be flat packed. It’s for my adopted grand daughters Their mum saw one in John Lewises at over £40 and decided to ask grandad if he could make one 
Anyway here it is, you’ll have to imagine the frilly drapes and duvet etc,
It’s still got to have the finish applied, I haven’t decided to do it with Danish oil or polyurethane, what would you do it with?
A little toolbox to house my limited edition stainless steel Veritas edge plane.
Here is a pic of the plane
Made from American Black Walnut & Mahogany, here is the box
Parts added to fit the shape of the plane
Green flock added to give it a little extra padding
More to come soon.
The finished box, well nearly finished, it’s had a coat of cellulose sanding sealer plus two coats of Danish oil every coat except the last coat rubbed back with 0000 wire wool. A couple more coats on the outside should see it finished.
What it looks like inside. A pocket has been added to put the guarantee instruction and the paperwork showing authenticity of limited edition #22 of 300.
The final touch after a couple more coats of danish oil might be to stick this on the inside of the lid, I can’t quite make my mind up about it.
Stanley 10 1/2 Refurb Finished
here is how it looked when I picked it up at a carboot sale(yard sale) for £5 ($10)
Cleaning The Plane
First step to assemble the kit needed to use electrolysis to strip the rust off
Pics of the kit
Really expensive kit One gallon plastic container with the top cut off, two bits of iron to act as negative anodes, two old spring clamps to hold the anodes, and a 12v battery charger, and most important two or three spoonfuls of washing soda.
Next step fill the container with water turn on the power and add the soda a little at a time until approximately a 5-6 amp current is obtained.
Container filled with water the current is turned on and washing soda added
15 minutes later it’s cooking quite nicely the scum on the top is rust.
Here is a closer pic of the lever cap before restoration started
The lever cap had about an hour undergoing the electolysis treatment then I buffed it up using a polishing mop on my grinding machine. This next pic is how it looks now.
At the moment the frog and chip beaker are in tub cooking
Tuesday 30th July
The chip breaker had the same elecrolysis treatment but it needed a lot of rubbing down, there is some pitting as I expected but I can live with that
The blade although needing a lot a rubbing down came out much better than the chip breaker
Some clean up shows there is some pitting but nothing that bad
After flattening the sole and sides of the body a little just to get it clean paint stripper was applied
to remove the japaning
Stanley 10 1/2 frog gets it’s first coat of japaning before it gets it’s second coat it will be cooked in the Aga for an hour or two
Bits and pieces polished up and finished
Well this finishes the bevel edged chisel cabinet, added are the 1″ chisel third in from right, and the last two on the right which are a left and right handed 1/2″ skew chisels.
Here is a better pic of the chisels including two Lie Nielsen planes the #98 & #99 plus a Lie Nielsen Boggs spokeshave and a Veritas hold down.
One or two other Lie-Nielsen tools I have
No. 10-1/4 Bench Rabbet Plane
60-1/2R Rabbet Block Plane
60-1/2 Low Angle Adjustable Mouth Block Plane
073 Large Shoulder Plane
Here are my Stanley No 5, 6 & 7 all Japaned in the Aga
Number 5 was a learning curve and really could do to be done again.
Number 6 was pretty good for the second attempt, even though I say it myself.
Number 7 perfection Better job than Stanley ever did.
How did I do it? Well I started Here I found it a pretty good guide of how to do it.
A recipe…
asphaltum, 2 lbs.
boiled linseed oil, 1/2 pint
spirits of turpentine, 1 gallon;
Mix the ashhaltum & boiled linseed oil first in an iron pot, boil slowly until the asphaltum is melted, then take it some distance from the fire, cool a little, and add the turpentine (avoiding ignition) before it cools too much, and it is finished. It might look quite brown at first but it will darken with age and when more coats that are applied.
Asphalum Suppliers
Early history of Japaning
Click Here
More interesting reading & recipes HERE
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