Latest Project Started this week. Does that count?

American Black Walnut Drawer Unit

I’m going to build a copy of this pic out of American Black Walnut, it won’t be an exact copy mine will be longer and lower.

Here are my drawings for the unit using sketchup.

Here’s the stock of 25mm boards of American Black Walnut that will be used.

Starting this afternoon I used the worst boards that were twisted or warped badly for the ends of the unit as the finished lengths will only be 16″ The pic below shows the ends cut to approximate length of 19″ the finish length will be 16″ all the pieces have been planed flat and one edge jointed using the jointer in the background of the pic, they are all thicknessed to 3/4″ using the thicknesser positioned behind the jointer.

Sometimes I have a problem with spectators and no amount of persuasion is gonna move them,
Here I am trying to shift them. 🙂

All the boards were thicknessed and the side nearest the fence was jointed, here I am just squaring the other edge before jointing it.

No amount of persuasion was going to shift him, so I have to work around him. 🙂

I’m sorting the boards for best sides and edges, Bosun decides he might move. 🙂

All the boards sorted glued and clamped up.

I got the top panel glued up.

Mitered all the edges on the top and end panels

And glued the end panels to the top

Added a fillet to add strength to the end panel.

Then I added a temporary base so I could work with the unit the right way up.

View of the end panel with the glue cleaned off.

Fitting the top face rail on.

Fitting the right hand face stile.

All the clamps removed and glue cleaned off.

Just the lower face rail and three stiles dividing the four drawers to do on the front face.

MTP (Moretoolsplease) pointed out I had a potential cross grain problem so this morning I cured the problem by chopping out the fillet and making it three fillets, this was done to the other end as well. I had to compromise where I made the gaps because the boards on the top are not the same width as the boards on the end pieces.

The face frame for the back panel has to have slots cut to house loose panels, here I am cutting a 6mm wide slot and with two passes will be 7mm deep. (sorry about the focusing)

Top rear face rail done. But not without a mishap 😦

The mishap, I dropped the board on the floor and broke off a great chunk right on the corned of the mitre 😦 It took me more than half a hour to find the missing bit, boxxxxks anyway I did eventually find it, I just hope it blends in when the finish is applied.

Rear face end pieces fitted both with a stopped housing/dado, dunno which it should be called, going more senial every day. 🙂

Front face lower rail fitted. this one is fitted using just glue and two pocket screws each end.

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The stiles that divide the drawers were fitted this morning so the front face is done. They are fitted using two pocket screws at each end.

Back face rails and stiles routed out with a 6mm groove and will be fixed to the unit using floating/loose tenons.

With the tenons glued to the carcase all the parts are dry fitted to check the sizes for the panels.

I had to Rip two boards down so each panel can be bookmarked. There was quite a lot of stress relieved after doing this and it was a close call if there was going to be enough thickness to get them flat, I managed it but only just.

A quick scrape

I ripped off the sapwood and here i’m using my small panel sledge to cut them to size

All four panels fitted with no glue, just a good sand and scrape off tomorrow then I can fit the draw guides, with that done the body is finished…. Just four draws to make.

😆

A better view of the back face panel with clamps removed and sanded. As a matter of interest when I clamped up for gluing I forgot to put some protective spacers in the jaws and it left some pretty deep grooves in the end panels. So I nicked swmbo’s steam iron and with a dampened tea towel steam ironed the area for about ten seconds. Hey presto no more grooves. 🙂

Adding a rail front and back the full length and using the actual draw supports to get the positioning perfect. (note the colour of the old and new pine) the front rail (the one at the top in the pic) was positioned first and fixed using glue and 18g brads.
The rail at the back (the lower one in the pic) was carefully positioned to make the draw support exactly 90deg to the face frame.

A better view of the draw supports. Each one is .5 mm higher than the lower front rail, so when the draw is opened or closed it will not hit or rub on the rail.

Jig for positioning the guides. Using this jig as a mock up of a drawer it was simple to glue and brad the draw guides.

Draw guides in place.

Just need to fit some timber above each draw opening to stop the draw from tipping forward when pulled out then a good sanding, the front and sides have not been sanded yet.

Do you think I could patent the draw jig? 😆

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Small Mahogany Table

Several weeks ago I picked up this mahogany board for £3 at the local car boot sale.

Today I ripped down the middle first so it would go through the thicknesser. Nearest to the camera are two pieces that will form the top and three of the rails. The furthest board will make the forth rail, the rest will be for the legs.

All the pieces cut. Two pieces for the top, four rails, eight pieces for the legs.

The legs all sized through the thicknesser and cut to the exact same length using a stop on the mitre saw.

The top cut to size using a crosscut sled and perfectly cut square with the use of the stop off the Mitre saw.

The legs are ready for mortices and tapering. The top is finished. The rails need a final cut to length and tennons cut plus a rebate on the inside face for fixing the top too.

Cutting the tenon shoulders for the rails

All shoulders cut and all exactly the same.

Rails finished

Mortices cut

Tapering the legs

All legs tapered

Rails finished

Dry fit

One coat of celulose sanding sealer, two coats of finishing oil. No wax yet.

A Dolphin For a Cruising Companion

Yes this chap joined us during a trip from Plymouth to Falmouth, he stayed for more than 10 minutes showing off, he even turned upside down and looked at us 🙂

My thumb got into this pic 🙂

Oak Presentation Box

Made for my son Julian to hold a radio controlled glider, which he demonstrates at model exhibitions and at national level. He’s well known in model flying circles and he is often featured in radio controlled flying magazines both in flying and building models.

It is made to hold just one glider, Julian will mould foam to hold each part safely.

😀