Sip Cast Iron Table Saw Improvements

Fed up of having to remove the riving knife every time I wanted to use my tenoning jig I decided to cut the knife off just below the level of the blade. But the riving knife holds the guard in place and the guard is also designed to suck up any stray sawdust above the table, not that the suction was any good anyway 😦 So I decided to do something about it, here’s what I done.

I cut of the riving knife just below the blade height and added this frame to hold the guard.

In raised position. If I need clearance for using my tenoning jig it really easy to remove one bolt in the struts of the frame and swing the cover out of the way. This pic shows how high it will lift without removing the bolt.

While I was at it I thought about the rubbish suction that the guard/cover generates so using a small piece of plastic cut from an old white spirit bottle is pushed into the pipe end to create a ventury effect. It works but I’m going to experiment with different sizes to see what is best to add suction to the blade cover.

I also added a zero clearance kerf slot.

Finally I though I’d stop any dust blowing around the workshop by filling the gaps between the feet on the base.
So using just some scrap MDF I did this.

No fixings they just sit on the floor.

I got the box tube and flat bar out of an offcuts bin at a local farm engineering company, cost £5 😀 The pipe is from an old knackered Dyson 😀 The paint I already had, I probably used about half a can so that cost was about £3…. so in all I’ve spent about £8

To finish it off this morning I added two shelves



The Drawer Unit Finished, and in place at home.

Swmbo wanted a satin finish so this morning with the Danish oil well cured I applied Black Bison Paste Wax with 0000 grade wire wool then when totally covered I wire wooled it again quite harshly so no area was at all shiny then after a good clean I waxed it again and then buffed it up. I must say I did quite like it a very high gloss but on finishing it I’m pleased with the outcome of the satin finish. 🙂

Here are the final pictures.

The third coat of oil goes on

This is what it looked like this morning after the second coat of oil.

After cutting back with 0000 wirewool, and cleaning off with a tack rag this is what it looked like.

Then the third coat of oil was applied.

So I think the three coats will be enough. I did intend to do the drawers insides and with lemon oil but I ain’t got none 😦
Maybe late today it will get a coat of wax and taken into the house. 😀

The finish is applied

I said right at the beginning I had no choice over the handle/draw pull design as swmbo had already made her mind up but we did discus at some length and did a trial & error with odd sizes as to how big bearing in mind where this piece is finally going to be placed. I must say now that I think they are right for the piece. My final pic will be showing it in it’s resting place.

Meanwhile back in the pit….. 😆

All the woodwork is done

This morning after applying sanding sealer this is what it looked like.

Then after using 0000 wire wool it looked like this.

Then after one coat of Danish oil it looks like.

All four drawers done

All four drawers done. The fourth one on the right still needs sanding. I’ve got to make the knobs next and I still haven’t fitted anything to stop the drawers from tipping and I need to put a stop behind each drawer.

First draw finished

First draw finished & sanded, three to go….

It needed a little adjusting to get it to fit, i’ve only allowed 1mm at the sides and top so it is quite a tight fit.

What it should look like, I couldn’t resist damping it to see what it will look like 😀 As soon as I finished this draw I tried using the Leigh D4 on some scrap to see if I could master it, I totally screwd up the dovetail bit and managed to nacker two of the fingers 😦 So it was back to the chisels and this afternoon I have managed to get #2 draw glued up and all it needs is a sanding down then on to number three. 😀


Started the drawers for the unit

Tried a test cut doing blind half dovetails using my Leigh D4 but I’ve never done half blind dovetails before only through dovetails, and they came out crap, so I ended up doing them by hand. It took over an hour, If I had the confidence to use the leigh I’m sure it would have been less than five minutes. Anyone care to give me some lessons on how to do half blind dovetails using a Leigh D4?

Here’s the finished side unglued of course, one down seven more to go. 😦