The Hall Table Top

Work resumes on the hall table 😀

With a 10mm slot cutter fitted in the router table, it took three passes on every piece to reach the desired depth of 19mm

A pic showing all the pieces routed out

Glue up and clamping of half of the top. The floating tenons are used here to align everything but they are not glued in and in the second pic they are removed while the glue goes off.

With the ends rounded off on the sander the tenons get glue in to the rails

Later I’ll be gluing to two halves of the top together then add ing the rails.

Viewed the correct way up with the side rails dry fitted, plus the arises on both side of the centre panel have been chamfered

A closer view of the chamfered joints

With the top upside down and clamped all the holes for the pins were marked, then the rails were removed and all the holes drilled, then the rails were replaced and reclamped, then using a drill as a centre punch I marked the tenons as shown in this pic. Next job is to remove the rails and drill through the tenons slightly off the mark to clinch the rails tight when the pins are hammered in. All the holes in the tenons have to be elongated also to allow for any wood movement.

There will be 32 pins in all 16 in each end reaching a third of the length only the middle 8″ will be glued.

The cunning bit.

Your looking at the underside of the top

Here is a closer view of one of the pieces, glue and screwed only to the rails, the centre panel is still free to move. They will add reinforcement to the dowels to keep the outer rails from moving out. Normally these bars would be fitted to the base and they would stop the drawers from tipping when they are pulled out, but on this table they get to do two jobs 🙂

The correct way up, All sanded and awaiting the finish

A closer view

Applying the finish

Two coats of cellulose sanding sealer, both cut back with 0000 wire wool, then one coat of danish oil. Two more coats od danish oil should see it done.

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About Lord Nibbo
Me :)

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